Strongback:

Use white glue to sandwich the 2 strongback halves together as close as possible. Place under weights or a book while curing to maintain flatness. Waxed paper can be used to protect the work surface.

Glue “Bow holders” and “Stern holders” into the “Bow” and “Stern” panel slots.

Starting with frame 1, glue frames 1-7 to the strongback spine. Use a small block to ensure the panels are at right angels to each other.

Glue side runners to frames 1-7.

Glue Bow and Stern frames to assembly.

Glue the stand supports to the stand ends.

Hull:

This kit comes with both Cherry and Walnut bow and transom pieces, decide which you want to use and sandwich them together.

Use binder clips to clamp bow and transom on the strongback, centered with the guidelines.

Lay hull sides in place on the strongback and position with rubber bands.

Glue the sides to the bow and transom pieces with CA, using the minimum amount of glue possible. (Take care not to glue the pieces to the frame assembly! The included capillary tips can help with this)

Using a sanding block and ~100 grit paper, sand the edge of the sides flush with the chines. Especially at the ends, so it mates the bottom well.

Lay hull bottoms in place on the strongback and position with rubber bands.

Glue the bottoms down the middle, to the sides, and to the bow and transom pieces. (Take care not to glue the pieces to the frame assembly!)

Using a sanding block and ~100 grit paper, sand the bottoms flush with sides and ends.

Glue on 2 of the rails on the outside of the hull, one rail at a time. Sand the ends flush.

Remove the hull from the strongback and use sufficient glue to keep everything together.

Check for straightness. If any twist has occured place the hull back on the strongback with rubber bands and use a clothes steamer to heat the wood, and let it cool / dry on the strongback.

Use white glue to sandwich the keelson together as close as possible. Place under weights or a book while curing to maintain flatness.

Glue on the keelson to the center of the hull.

Glue on one set of rails on the inside of the hull. Dry fit first and trim with scissors to the correct length. Extra rails are included as they are quite fragile.

Use white glue to sandwich the aft seat, aft seat support, thwart, thwart support, mast step, partners, and fore and aft corners together as close as possible. Place under weights or a book while curing to maintain flatness.

Glue the aft seat support to the underside of the aft seat. The arrows indicate which direction is forward. Use a small block to ensure the edges are at right angles. Glue the aft seat to the hull.

Glue the thwart support to the underside of thwart. The arrows indicate which direction is forward. Use a small block to ensure the edges are at right angles. Glue the thwart to the hull, with the forward edge ~127mm from the forward edge of the bow.

Glue the mast step to the hull, ensuring it is straight as possible. Use the guidelines on the back of the bow piece and sight the hull from the back.

Glue the mast partners to the hull, mating it under the inner rails.

Glue the forward and aft corners to the hull, flush with the deck.

The hull can be finished inside and out with a clear polyurethane spray.

BLADES:

Use white glue to sandwich the leeboard, 2 of the wood leeboard mounts, rudder, and tiller together as close as possible. Place under weights or a book while curing to maintain flatness.

Glue the tiller to the rudder, using the guidelines.

The blades can be finished with a clear polyurethane spray.

Glue the pintles to the rudder, be sure to maintain straightness.

Slide the gudgeons on the pintles, and glue the gudgeons to the transom using the guidelines.

Glue the leeboard washer on the leeboard.

Glue the wood leeboard mount to the hull as shown, with the center of the hole Xmm back from the forward edge of the bow.

Glue the brass leeboard mount to the rail and the wood leeboard mount. Mount the leeoard in the “up” position to ensure straightness.

SAIL:

Use scissors to cut the 2 battens apart down the center of the seam stick.

Peel the seam stick covering from the battens and attach to the sail, using the guidelines.

Attach the class logo to the sail using the guidelines.

Use the stencil to draw sail numbers on the sail. The numbers on the starboard side should be on top, Xmm under the drawn-in seam. The numbers on the port side should be on the bottom, Xmm above the drawn-in seam. Both sets should be Xmm from the leech.

Crease the luff sleeve dacron down the middle, unfold and peel off one edge of the seam stick covering.

Attach the luff sleeve to the forward edge of the sail, pressing firmly as you go along to conform to the luff curve.

Peel the top and opposite edge of the seam stick covering, and attach the remaining side, pressing firmly as you go along to conform to the luff curve.

Mast and Boom:

Use white glue to sandwich the boom together as close as possible. Place under weights or a book while curing to maintain flatness.

The boom can be finished inside and out with a clear polyurethane spray.

Glue the 3 small blocks to the underside of the boom, one Xmm from the aft end of the boom to the center of the block, the second Xmm from the forward end, and the third Xmm from the forward end.

Glue one cleat to the starboard side of the boom, Xmm from the aft end.

Slide the round end of the mast into the sail.

Attach the boom to the gooseneck with the included brass bolt.

Slide the gooseneck up the mast , and glue in place Xmm from the bottom of the mast to the center of the gooseneck bolt.

Using the dacron line, secure the clew of the sail to the boom, about Xmm from the aft end. Use a drop of glue to keep the line in the cleat. The dacron line is most easily cut by saturating a section with a drop of CA, and cutting at an angle to create a point. This makes threading though holes easier.

Position the mast can in the hull, and the mast in the mast can. The boom should be Xmm above the transom. Use the smallest amount of glue to attach the can, being careful not to glue the mast in the can.

Remove the mast and use sufficient glue to secure the mast can to the hull.

Rigging:

Glue the 2 cheek blocks to either side of the mast step.

Glue the mainsheet block and 2 cleats to the thwart.

Thread a piece of dacron line ~Xmm long through on of the small holes in a thimble, ad secure with a bowline. A drop of CA keeps the knot from untying.

Thread another piece ~ Xmm long through the aft corner holes and the large hole in the thimble, with knots underneath the corners.

Thread the mainsheet though the 2 boom blocks and the mainsheet block.

Thread a piece of dacron line ~Xmm long through on of the small holes in a thimble, ad secure with a bowline.

Thread another piece ~ Xmm long through the mast partner holes and the large hole in the thimble, with knots underneath the partners.

Thread the vang through the remaining small block and the cheek block, terminating at one of the cleats on the thwart.

Secure piece of dacron line ~Xmm to the tack thimble using a bowline.

Thread the downhaul through the remaining cheek block, terminating at the remaining cleat on the thwart.