Naples Sabot 1/8th scale kit
Contents:
- 3x 3mm Birch ply panels containing the strongback and stand
- 2x Cherry panels containing hull and assembly pieces
- 1x Walnut panel containing hull and assembly pieces
- Mast and mast can
- Brass: 2x pintles, 2x gudgeons, leeboard mount, leeboard washer, leeboard handle, and gooseneck
- Plastic: 3x small blocks, 2x cheek blocks, 1x mainsheet block , 2x thimbles, and 3x cleats
- Sail: main panel, luff sleeve with seam stick, battens, class insignia, and number template
- 8' woven dacron line
- Rubber bands, binder clips, CA glue tips
Required materials:
- Medium CA glue (I recommend “Zap-a-Gap”, Amazon link here.) Capillary tips are included
- White glue or Wood glue (Elmer’s or Aleene’s Tacky Glue works great)
- ruler
- sanding block, with ~120 and ~220 grit paper
- small square block or cube to align strongback pieces while gluing (Jenga blocks are perfect)
- scissors
- small weights or a book used to keep parts flat while drying
- a flat work surface
Optional materials:
- Lacquer (acrylic or polyurethane)
- Sewing machine
- garment (clothes) steamer
Strongback:
Use white glue to sandwich the 2 strongback halves together, aligned as close as possible. Spread white glue thin and all of the way to the edges. Place under weights or a book while curing to maintain flatness. Waxed paper can be used to protect the work surface.
Starting with rib 1, glue ribs 1-7 to the strongback spine. Use a small block to ensure the panels are at right angles to each other.
Glue the side runners to frames 1-7.
Glue the Bow holder and Stern holder pieces into the Bow and Stern rib slots.
Glue the Bow and Stern ribs to assembly. The bottom edges should be flush with the work surface. Remove excess glue from the tops of the rounded sections.
Sand lightly with a sanding block to make sure the 3 rounded sections on each end are true and level.
Glue the stand supports to the stand ends. Use a small block to align the panels at right angels to each other.
Hull:
This kit comes with both Cherry and Walnut bow and transom pieces, decide which you would like to use and sandwich them together. Make sure the veneer sides (horizontal grain) are on the outside. The edges can be sanded lightly with ~220 grit sandpaper if they are rough from laser cutting. Spread white glue thin and all of the way to the edges. Place under weights or a book while drying to maintain flatness. Waxed paper can be used to protect the work surface.
Use the included binder clips to clamp the bow and transom pieces on the strongback, centered with their guidelines. The bow has it’s mast step guidelines facing inwards, and the transom has it’s gudgeon guidelines facing aft.
Lay the hull sides in place on the strongback and position with rubber bands. The band slots can be elongated with a file or rasp if the bands fail to hold secure. The ends of the side panels should be flush with the bow and transom.
Glue the sides to the bow and transom pieces with CA, using the minimum amount of glue necessary. Take care not to glue the pieces to the frame assembly! The included capillary tips can help with this. Run one bead on the outside first, then carefully run a bead on the inside.
Remove the rubber bands, and using a sanding block and ~120 grit paper, sand the edge of the sides flush with the chines, especially at the bow and stern. Sand towards the center, as to not stress the glue joints. Take your time and check that the edges are fully sanded flush to the same angle that the sides meet the strongback.
Remove the binder clips, and lay the hull bottoms in place on the strongback and position with rubber bands. The ends of the bottom panels should be flush with the bow and transom, and the bottom panels should overlap the sides. Sight the inside and ensure the panels join on centerline. If any gaps remain remove the bottoms and continue sanding.
Glue the bottoms to the bow and transom from the outside only with CA, using the minimum amount of glue necessary. Take care not to glue the pieces to the frame assembly! Glue the bottoms to each other down the middle, and to the sides, with small drops of glue from the inside in between the ribs.
Remove the hull from the strongback and run a bead of CA along the all of the inside edges
After the CA has fully cured replace the hull on the strongback. Using a sanding block with ~120 grit paper, sand the bottoms flush with the sides and ends. Then repeat with 220 grit sandpaper, cleaning up any scratches and excess glue.
Use scissors to cut the rails free at the ends.
Glue on 2 rails on each side of the hull, on the outside, one rail at a time. Sand the ends flush and round the corners.
Remove the hull from the strongback and check for straightness. If any twist has occurred place the hull back on the strongback with rubber bands and use a clothes steamer to heat the wood, and let it cool / dry on the strongback.
Use white glue to sandwich the keelson pieces, aligned together as close as possible. Place under weights or a book while curing to maintain flatness.
Glue on the keelson to the center of the hull. Sand the ends flush with the hull.
Glue on one set of rails on the inside of the hull. Dry fit first and trim with scissors to the correct length. Extra rails are included as they are quite fragile.
Use white glue to sandwich the aft seat and aft seat support pieces together, aligned as close as possible. Place under weights or a book while curing to maintain flatness. Using the guidelines, glue the aft seat support to the underside of the aft seat. Use a small block to ensure the panels are at right angles to each other. The indicator arrows point forwards
Position the aft seat and support in the hull, making sure the seat is level. Tack in place with a small amount of CA. If everything looks good, run a bead of CA along all of the edges.
Use white glue to sandwich the thwart and thwart support pieces together, aligned as close as possible. Place under weights or a book while curing to maintain flatness. Using the guidelines, glue the aft seat support to the underside of the aft seat. Use a small block to ensure the panels are at right angles to each other. The indicator arrows point forwards.
Position the thwart and support in the hull with the forward edge 5” (127mm) from the forward edge of the bow. Tack in place with a small amount of CA, making sure the thwart is level. If everything looks good, run a bead of CA along all of the edges.
Use white glue to sandwich the mast step and partner pieces together, aligned as close as possible. Place under weights or a book while curing to maintain flatness.
Position the mast step in the hull, ensuring it is straight as possible. Use the guidelines on the back of the bow piece and sight the hull from the back. The parallel edges lay forward. Tack in place with a small amount of CA. If everything looks good, run a bead of CA along all of the edges.
Using the sanding block, sand a slight bevel on the bottom edge of the sides of the mast partners.
Slide the mast partners forward under the rails, making sure it’s square. The center of the mast hole should be 1 1/2” (39mm) from the forward end of the bow. Tack in place with a small amount of CA. If everything looks good, run a bead of CA along all of the edges.
Using the sanding block, sand the tops of the rails smooth, and the top edge of the bow and stern panels flush with the rails.
Use white glue to sandwich the forward and aft corner pieces together, aligned as close as possible. Place under weights or a book while curing to maintain flatness.
Using the sanding block, sand a bevel on the bottom edge of the corners and the sides for a flush fit with the rails.
Glue the forward and aft corners in place, flush with the tops of the rails.
Use white glue to sandwich 2 of the wood leeboard mount pieces together, aligned as close as possible. Place under weights or a book while curing to maintain flatness.
Glue the wood leeboard mount to the hull as shown, with the center of the hole 4 9/16” (116mm) back from the forward edge of the bow, or 35/64” (14mm) forward of the front edge of the thwart.
Completed hull. The hull can be finished inside and out with a clear acrylic or polyurethane spray lacquer.
Blades:
Use white glue to sandwich the leeboard, rudder, and tiller pieces, aligned together as close as possible. Place under weights or a book while curing to maintain flatness.
Glue the tiller to the rudder, using the guidelines.
The blades can be finished with a clear acrylic or polyurethane spray lacquer.
Using the guidelines, glue the pintles to the rudder, being sure to maintain alignment.
Slide the gudgeons on the pintles, and position the gudgeons on the transom using the guidelines. Make sure the rudder is straight with the hull centerline. Tack in place with CA, if everything looks straight, glue in place.
Glue the leeboard washer on the leeboard, using the guide lines.
Position the brass leeboard mount on the rail and in the wood leeboard mount. Secure the leeboard in the “up” position and sight from above to ensure it is straight with the hull centerline. Tack in place with CA, and if everything looks straight glue in place.
SAIL:
Use scissors to carefully cut the outline of the luff sleeve and sail panel.
Use scissors to cut the 2 battens apart down the center of the seam stick.
Peel the seam stick covering from the battens and attach to the sail, using the guidelines.
Carefully peel the backing off the class logo and attach the sail using the guidelines.
Use the included stencil to draw your sail numbers on the sail. The numbers on the starboard side should be on top. Place the top edge of the stencil on the drawn-in seam under the top batten on the starboard side. The numbers on the port side should be on the bottom. Place the bottom edge of the stencil on the drawn in seam above the bottom batten on the port side. Both sets should be 1/2” (12mm) forward of the leech, with the numbers spaced roughly 3/16” (4mm) apart from each other.
Crease the luff sleeve panel down the middle, towards the seam stick.
Unfold and peel off one edge of the seam stick covering. Attach the luff sleeve to the forward edge of the sail, pressing firmly as you go along to conform to the luff curve.
Peel the top and opposite edge of the seam stick covering, and attach the remaining side, pressing firmly as you go along to conform to the luff curve.
The luff seam can be sewn together with a sewing machine.
Mast and Boom:
Use white glue to sandwich the boom pieces together, one piece at a time, aligned as close as possible. Make sure the veneer sides (horizontal grain) face outwards. Use a toothpick to keep the holes clear of glue. Place under weights or a book while curing to maintain flatness. Once dry, add a drop of CA to the ends of the boom for strength.
The edges of the boom should be cleaned up with the sanding block if the edges are rough. The boom can be finished with a clear acrylic or polyurethane spray lacquer.
Glue the 3 small blocks to the underside of the boom, one 1 11/16” (43mm) from the aft end of the boom to the center of the block, the second 2 1/4” (57mm) from the forward end, and the third 3 5/8” (92mm) from the forward end.
Glue one cleat to the starboard side of the boom, 2” (51mm) from the aft end.
Attach the boom to the gooseneck with the included brass bolt. Slide the round end of the mast into the sail. Slide the gooseneck up the mast , and glue in place 3” (76mm) from the bottom of the mast to the bottom of the gooseneck.
Secure the clew of the sail to the boom with a 12” (250mm) piece of dacron line, looping through the aft holes as shown. Saturate the line with a drop of CA before cutting to prevent fraying. After trimming the excess line, use a drop of glue to keep the line in the cleat, as well as the stopper knots to keep them from coming loose. To thread the dacron line through holes easier, saturate a section with a drop of CA, and cut at an angle to create a point.
Slide the mast into the mast can. If the fit is tight the mast can be sanded with 220 grit paper. Position the mast and can in the hull, seated on the mast step. Adjust the mast rake until the boom is about 2 1/4” (57mm) - 2 3/4” (70mm) above the transom. Carefully remove the mast without moving the can, and tack in place with CA.
After the CA has cured, double check the rake is correct, remove the mast and use sufficient glue to secure the mast can to the mast step.
Rigging:
Glue the 2 cheek blocks to either side of the mast step.
Glue the mainsheet block to the center of the thwart. Glue 2 cleats to the thwart, about 1/8” (3mm) from the forward edge, using a straightedge to ensure alignment with the cheek blocks.
For the mainsheet, thread a ~32” (800mm) piece of dacron line through the small hole in a thimble, and secure with a bowline. To thread the dacron line through holes easier, saturate a section with a drop of CA, and cut at an angle to create a point.A drop of CA also keeps the knot from untying.
For the stern traveler, tie a stopper knot in the end of a ~10” (250mm)piece of dacron line. Saturate the end of the line with a drop of CA before cutting to prevent fraying. Thread it up through an aft corner hole and the large hole in the thimble, and back down through the hole in the opposite aft corner. Secure with a knot under the corner and trim the excess line. Add a drop of CA to the knots to prevent the knots from untying.
Thread the mainsheet though the 2 boom blocks and the mainsheet block. Position the boom at ~90 degrees and tie a stopper knot in the end of the mainsheet, and trim the excess line. Do not saturate this knot if removing the sail later is preferred.
For the vang, thread a piece of dacron line ~18” (450mm) long through the small hole in a thimble, and secure with a bowline.
For the vang traveler, tie a stopper knot in the end of a ~8” (200mm)piece of dacron line. Saturate the end of the line with a drop of CA before cutting to prevent fraying. Thread it up through one of the holes in the mast partners and the large hole in the thimble, and back down through the hole in the mast partners. Create a ~2” loop as shown, and secure with a knot on the under side, trimming the excess line. Add a drop of CA to the knots to prevent them from untying.
Thread the vang through the remaining small block and the cheek block, terminating at one of the cleats on the thwart. Tie a stopper knot, and trim the excess line as shown. If the sail / mast is not intended to be removed, use a drop of glue to keep the line in the cleat.
Secure piece of dacron line 12” (300mm) to the tack thimble using a bowline.
Thread the downhaul through the remaining cheek block, terminating at the remaining cleat on the thwart. Tie a stopper knot, and trim the excess line as shown. If the sail / mast is not intended to be removed, use a drop of glue to keep the line in the cleat.
